Grading

Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds

GradingApr 19, 2021

Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds

The Swiss lab reveals how stones from the Panjshir Valley are both different from and similar to emeralds from other places.

20210419_SSEF-header.jpg
The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF released the results of what it claims is the first published study of a new high-quality emerald type from Afghanistan. At left, an Afghan emerald, and at right, a Colombian emerald (Image courtesy SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF conducted intensive research on high-quality Afghan emeralds and has released its findings for the trade.

In 2017, the lab started seeing a new kind of emerald from the country’s Panjshir Valley, nearly all of which were fine quality, SSEF Director Michael Krzemnicki said.

As they do for all less familiar material, researchers at SSEF decided to study the emeralds extensively to find ways to separate them from others.

This was necessary, especially given that the material is occasionally mislabeled as Colombian, Krzemnicki said.

The high-quality Panjshir Valley emeralds closely match the South American specimens in terms of both their appearance and their gemological properties, SSEF said.

The Swiss lab conducted the study by testing and analyzing more than 100 gem-quality emeralds from the Panjshir Valley, ranging from 1 carat to more than 30 carats.

It also looked at emeralds from Colombia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Pakistan and Davdar, China, the lab confirmed.

To develop reliable ways to distinguish the Afghan emeralds from others, SSEF compared emeralds from different origins through laser-ablation mass spectrometry using its state-of-the-art GemTOF instrument and by applying a machine-learning statistical algorithm for data processing and visualization.

By compiling 56 elements in the calculation, the Afghan emeralds could be characterized and differentiated from other emeralds, particularly Colombian. 

The research team reported that gemologically, Afghan emeralds are characterized by spiky to tubular fluid inclusions and very fine and parallel hollow channels, both of which are similar to inclusions that can be found in Colombian emeralds. 

But though the team also occasionally saw “chevron-like” growth features, the honeycomb-like pattern characteristic of Colombian emeralds—a graining often known in the trade as “gota de aceite”—has not yet been spotted in Afghan emeralds. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

Chemically, the composition of Afghan emeralds is “astonishingly similar” to Colombian emeralds, SSEF said, adding only a careful trace element analysis of the stones would reveal the differences.

The most common difference between the two is a higher iron concentration in the Afghan samples when compared to Colombian.

On the other hand, the iron content of the Afghan emeralds was still much smaller than that found in those mined in Zambia, Brazil, and Russia, among others.

In addition to being able to separate Afghan emeralds from other sources, another big takeaway for Krzemnicki from the study had to do with quality and origin.

He said one thing he found striking was the “exceptional quality” of some of the stones—very clear and with few fissures.

The study is a good reminder, he reiterated, that there are always new sources, or new pockets from existing sources, being discovered, as is the case with this Afghan material, bringing the market new fine quality stones.

“I feel the trade has, let’s say, a wrong idea of quality. Colombian emerald has a certain historical notion, but at the very end, when we talk about quality, other sources can deliver the best quality. For example, sapphires from Madagascar can be super quality. These Afghanistan emeralds can too. It doesn’t always have to be these old, established sources.”

SSEF called its research the first detailed study characterizing this type of emerald from Afghanistan.

Krzemnicki said they wanted to make the information available to other labs or trade members involved in gem testing; the scientists published their methods and findings in the most recent edition of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s Journal of Gemmology.

A PDF of the article can be found on the Gem-A website as well as the SSEF website
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

trend retail.jpg
PodcastsJan 12, 2026
The latest poscast

test

Screenshot from 2026-01-12 06-22-03.png
PodcastsJan 12, 2026
New podcast without sponsor

test

20210205_Alexia_Connellan_Gatsby_earrings.jpg
TrendsJan 12, 2026
New test Article

test article

trend ss21@2x.jpg
Brought to you by
new sponsored article

test

2019_De_Beers_rough_NEW_1.jpg
PodcastsJan 12, 2026
New sponsored podcast

test

Weekly QuizOct 03, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
MNQ FINAL - NJ web - 1872 x 1052 px.png
PodcastsJan 12, 2026
Introducing My Next Question, the Podcast

A monthly podcast series for jewelry professionals

Screenshot from 2025-12-31 12-03-28.png
PodcastsDec 31, 2025
Test new podcast post

Test new podcast post

Jewelers Mutual Group Cybersecurity
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for Jewelers

From protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.

MNQ - studio - screen -1920 x 1080.png
PodcastsDec 29, 2025
Molly Test Podcast Episode

This is the abstract for Molly Test Podcast Episode

image 169 (4 col).png
PodcastsDec 10, 2025
Podcast With Video

Podcast Without Video or Audio or Image

image 169 (4 col).jpg
Recorded WebinarsDec 04, 2025
New Recorded Webinar for tests

New Recorded Webinar for tests

User-Avatar-PNG-Picture.png
PodcastsDec 03, 2025
Test Article Title

test Abstract

20210204_Couture_show_shot.jpg
PodcastsDec 02, 2025
New podcast

test desc

Screenshot from 2025-12-05 13-54-41.png
PodcastsNov 27, 2025
Test Podcast With Video

Test Podcast With Video. New interview with Ada Lovelace.

Image for tests
PodcastsNov 25, 2025
Test New Podcast Post

Abstract for tests. New Podcast interview with John Lennon, Jimi Hendrix and Jim Morison.

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsOct 09, 2024
Peter Smith: 7 Things to Know When Selling Luxury

Ahead of the holiday season, Smith delves into the often subconscious reasons people buy luxury products for themselves or their loved ones.

Edgar Mitchell wearing Rolex watch on Apollo 14
AuctionsOct 09, 2024
Rolex Worn on Apollo 14 Mission Up for Sale

The GMT-Master “Pepsi” belonging to astronaut Edgar Mitchell is a standout in RR Auction’s online “Space Auction,” going on now.

Simon meet me at the mall campaign
MajorsOct 09, 2024
New Simon Campaign Invites Gen Z to ‘Meet Me At The Mall’

The ads celebrate the mall culture of the ‘80s and ‘90s.

Platinum Guild International training
MajorsOct 09, 2024
PGI Launches New Virtual Sales Training

Retail sales associates can access the video series on mobile to refresh their selling skills.

Gathering at Bharat Diamond Bourse for COVID vaccinations
Policies & IssuesOct 09, 2024
GJNRF: Reaching Out, Rebuilding Futures

For 25 years, India’s Gem & Jewellery National Relief Foundation has provided aid in the wake of war, natural disasters, and global crises.

Sotheby’s A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria
AuctionsOct 08, 2024
Sotheby’s Selling Jewelry That Belonged to a Bulgarian Tsar

The November auction will feature a collection of jewels owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family.

Rough diamonds mined at the Diavik Diamond Mine
SourcingOct 08, 2024
Rio Tinto Begins New Phase of Production That Will Extend Diavik’s Life

Commercial production has begun underground at the Canadian diamond mine’s A21 pipe.

Stock image of hand holding phone by keyboard
SurveysOct 08, 2024
What to Know About Online Shopping This Holiday Season

Deloitte and Adobe Analytics shared their insights on the season, from the retail sales forecast to the role of generative AI.

Sylvie and Uncommon Man Campaign
CollectionsOct 08, 2024
Sylvie Adds New Men’s Bands

The Texas-based jeweler collaborated with luxury clothing brand Uncommon Man on men’s bands designed with European influences.

Diamond on polishing wheel Venus Jewel India
SourcingOct 08, 2024
Is Current Diamond Industry Turbulence Shaping a ‘New Normal’?

Industry players have found ways to cope with market conditions while working to reshape themselves in the face of emerging realities.

Rio Tinto 2024 Beyond RareTM Tender Art Series
SourcingOct 07, 2024
Rio Tinto to Offer 76 Diamonds in 2024 Beyond Rare Tender

The sales event, in its second year, features a selection of rare diamonds from the miner’s Argyle and Diavik diamond mines.

Kristi Yamaguchi and Scott Heller
CollectionsOct 07, 2024
Olympian Kristi Yamaguchi Partners With Heller Jewelers on New Collection

A portion of the proceeds from the “Always Dream” collection will go to Yamaguchi's foundation, supporting early childhood literacy.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy